Palm Free Waterlily Orange

final 2

We’ve been so inspired by all of the mixed media soaps happening lately, that we decided to do yet another! We did Melt & Pour Soap in Cold Process for Valentine’s Day, and then we embedded Cold Process Soap in Melt & Pour Soap with a fun planet/galaxy theme!

This time we were determined to take it to the next level!

**If you have never done Cold Process Soap Making, please review safety procedures before starting. There is a great tutorial where you can get all the information you need on SoapQueen.**

What You Will Need:

12.5 oz Distilled Water
4.7 oz Sodium Hydroxide (superfatted at 6%)
4.5 oz Avocado Oil
2.5 oz Castor Oil
11 oz Coconut Oil
4 oz Jojoba Oil
10 oz Olive Oil Pure
3.5 oz Shea Butter
1 tsp Sodium Lactate

1/2 tsp. Ultramarine Blue
1/4 tsp. Hydrated Chrome Green Oxide
1 tsp. Aqua Pearl Mica
2 oz Waterlily Orange Fragrance Oil
Straws (different sizes in diameter, cut into 2.5 inch segments)
Iridescent Glitter

2 oz Clear Melt & Pour
1 drop Liquid Orange
12 Bar Square Silicone Mold


1. First we mixed our lye solution by adding 4.7 oz of Sodium Hydroxide to 12.5 oz of Distilled Water and set aside to cool.
*Always remember to label your lye solution so nobody gets into it.*

2. Next, we measured out Waterlily Orange FO. Then premixed our colors in Sweet Almond Oil. To achieve the blue we wanted, we mixed the Ultramarine Blue with the Aqua Pearl Mica. It turned out perfect!

3. Then we measured out the oils and butters and had them heated up to about 100 degrees Fahrenheit. That’s when we checked on our lye, which was at 107 degrees. Generally you want to soap between 10-15 degrees of each other. collage 1 4. Once our lye was cool, we added 1 tsp of Sodium Lactate. This helps produce a harder bar of soap.

5. Next, we combined our lye and oils and used the stick blender to bring the soap batter to a light trace. collage 2 6. We separated out approximately 8 oz of the batch into a squeeze bottle. We added our premixed green color to the squeeze bottle and added our premixed blue color along with our fragrance oil to the large batch. collage 3collage 6 7. Now we were ready to pour our blue layer into the silicone mold. It started to thicken up a bit, but actually made a really nice water effect. Then we got a little fancy and added glitter to the top by lightly blowing it over the soap. collage 4collage 5 8. Now we grabbed the squeeze bottle of green and made circles on top of each square of soap. Next, we took a skewer and drug it down the circle to shape it like a leaf. collage 7collage 8 This is a long process! But bare with us!

9. Next, we strategically and randomly pushed the straws of different sizes into the blue areas of the soap. We sprayed the top with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol and let it cure for 48 hours.

collage 9

photo110. After 2 days, the straws were ready to get pulled out, and they left empty holes in their place.

11.We took 2 oz of clear m&p, melted it down and added 1 drop of liquid orange. We then took a dropper and filled those holes. This was slightly tricky, but once all of the holes had orange in them, we sprayed it down with alcohol again.

collage 1012. We let the soap sit for another 5 days before we popped them completely out to sit and cure on our shelf.

We LOVE these! And are so exited how they turned out. Come into Otion to take a look at them yourself and you can even purchase one to take home with you. :)


Opposites Attract: M&P Embeds in CP Soap


Earlier this year we debuted an out of this world project: Embedding CP soap into M&P soap. We had so much fun with our project we decided to try it again…Only inverted! This M&P embedded in CP is so stunning, it is sure to make a lovely Valentines Day gift. So give it a whirl, you may just find it’s your new favorite technique!

To see our first mixed medium project see our blog here.

What You Will Need:

For Cold Process Batch:
4 oz Avocado Oil
1 oz Castor Oil
5 oz Coconut Oil
6 oz Olive Oil Pure
5 oz Palm Oil
1 oz Shea Butter
2 tsp Titanium Dioxide
8 oz Distilled Water
3.04 oz Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
Rose Petals
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold

For Melt & Pour Embeds:
18 oz Clear Melt & Pour
2 mini scoops Super Pearly White
7 mini scoops Cellini Red
2 mini scoops Merlot Mica
1 mini scoop Cellini Blue
2 mL Black Amber & Lavender Fragrance Oil
Clean-up Tool
Mini Heart Silicone Embed Mold

ONE: Before you start your melt & pour embeds, you will want to make your lye water so it has time to cool down before you make your soap. Weigh out 3.04 oz of Sodium Hydroxide and set aside. Then weigh out 8 oz of distilled water. Once you have both weighed out, go ahead and add your lye to your water while mixing with a whisk. Label your mixture so no one touches it and set aside.

TWO: To start your heart embeds, melt down your clear m&p and add 7 mini scoops Cellini Red, 2 mini scoops Merlot Mica, 1 mini scoop Cellini Blue and 2 mL Black Amber & Lavender Fragrance Oil. Make sure you stir until there are no clumps in your soap. You can use the mini mixer to help disperse the color in the soap if needed.

THREE: When your color and fragrance is fully incorporated into your clear m&p you are ready to pour! To make this process easier, we recommend putting your mold in a tall sturdy vase to help keep it upright. Otherwise it likes to tip over. Once you have your mold in a vase, go ahead and pour your m&p into the mold. Let fully solidify and repeat steps until you have made 4 heart embeds. (note: if your m&p starts solidifying in your bowl you can pop it back in the microwave for 30 seconds.)

FOUR: Once your heart embeds are made, take a clean up tool and scrape off the edges that are from the seal of the mold. Once the edges are cleaned up, cut the embeds to fit the 10″ loaf mold. Set aside.


FIVE: Add 2 tsp Titanium Dioxide with 1 tbsp fixed oil and mix together. Set aside.

SIX: Now its time to make your cold process batch. Combine all your oils and butters and heat in the microwave until fully melted. When your lye solution and oils are around 120 degrees (within 10-15 degrees of each other) go ahead and pour your lye solution into your oils. We recommend pouring over the stick blender so it doesn’t splash back up at you. Blend your soap until you reach trace.

SEVEN: Once you have reached trace, add your titanium dioxide to your batch and blend together.

EIGHT: Spray your heart embeds with rubbing alcohol, then place 2 embeds on the bottom of your mold. Spray again with rubbing alcohol.


NINE: Now you are ready to pour your cold process soap. Pour over the 2 embeds until they are fully submerged. Then spray the existing 2 embeds with rubbing alcohol, place in mold then pour the cold process batch until mold is full.


TEN: Spray the top of the loaf with rubbing alcohol once more, then you are ready to cover the top with rose petals.


ELEVEN: Put your loaf under a box/blankets (or in our case, aprons) so your soap doesn’t cool too quickly. After about 1-2 days you can unmold and cut your soap.


TWELVE: When cutting your soap, be sure to turn the soap upside down so the rose petals are against the table. This is to prevent the rose petals from dragging through the soap and causing deep abrasions.



Melt & Pour Class

Have you ever wondered how melt & pour soap is clear? Or why you are able to get such amazing detail work into a bar of soap?
Then this class is for you!

Otion instructor Alesia will take you on a wonderful soap journey. You will learn how melt & pour is made, used, designed, labeled and sold. You will also learn advanced melt & pour techniques such as:

*Layering and detail work
*Water soluble paper usage
*Color and fragrance usage

You will  also get your hands dirty… or should we say ‘clean’ as you mix your own color and fragrance to create your very own masterpieces in class!

Each student will receive the following:
*A written instruction manual
*Handcrafted water soluble paper soap
*Handcrafted detail-work soap
*Handcrafted embed-work soap
*Handcrafted swirl soap
**And all handcrafted soaps are made by YOU!**

This class is expected to fill up fast, so reserve your spot today!

Class is $40.00 per person and is approximately 3 hours long.


Cold Process Planets in a Melt & Pour Universe

**Warning! These planets are not astronomically correct!**

Ever wanted to know how to combine cold process and melt & pour? Well, here is an out of this world opportunity to do just that!

What you will need:
- 16 oz cold process mixed colors
- 24 oz clear melt & pour
- 1 mL sodium lactate
- 4 mini scoops black luster mica
- 2 mL black tea fragrance oil
- 3 mini scoops silver glitter
- Thermometer
- 3 lb loaf mold


  • If you have some in the pot swirl soap hanging around, use it! If not, you can get some great soap from Bramble Berry. You can then shred the soap with a cheese grater. I used about 16 oz of cold process soap.2 
  • Once your cold process is grated, roll the shreds into balls ranging from 1/2 inch in diameter to 1 1/2 inches. Keep CP shreds separate so colors will be more defined.3
  • Once soap balls are rolled, it is time to make your universe!
  • Start by melting 24 oz of clear m&p. Add black luster mica, black tea fragrance oil and glitter. Stir well!4
  • Once soap has reached 130 degrees, add sodium lactate, this will thicken your soap and allow your planets to float!
  • Spray about 10-14 of your planets with rubbing alcohol and place them into your mold. Pour your m&p over the planets and begin to add more sprayed planets. Repeat in a quick fashion until the mold is full.5
  • Spray once more with rubbing alcohol and let sit.
  • Your soap will be ready to cut in approximately 2 hours!6

Peppermint Pizzazz!

stocking stuffer certified


My favorite addiction during the holidays? Peppermint! I want it all around my home and yes, even in the shower!

What You Will Need:

  • 10″ Silicone Loaf Mold 
  • Perfect Red Color Block
  • Liquid White
  • 2.8oz Peppermint 1st Essential Oil
  • Rubbing Alcohol in spray bottle
  • Tray Mold
  • 50 oz Clear M&P

1. First we will be making our peppermint pieces. Start by melting 16oz of clear M&P. Divide into two cups and add your peppermint essential oil. I recommend 0.7oz between your 2 cups. In one cup stir in liquid white until you reach desired color. In other cup sir in approx 0.1 oz. of perfect red.

2. Once your soap is mixed go ahead and pour white into the tray mold, spray with alcohol and allow to solidify but not cool. Spray with alcohol and pour red. I like to pour over a cutter so that my second layer does not break into the first.

collage 1

3. Once your soap has solidified (I usually avoid the freezer when layering, sometimes putting layered soap in the freezer can lead to separation) you can then chop it into tiny uneven pieces.


4. Repeat steps 1& 2; instead of pouring into the tray mold, pour the two layers into your silicone loaf mold. These red and white layers will be the base of your loaf.


5. Once your peppermint pieces are cut and your red and white layers have solidified, its time for the embedding.

6. Melt your remaining clear soap in a Pyrex container. To offset the yellow oils in the base, I like to add a trace amount of liquid blue by running my spoon over the tip of the liquid blue. Then stir into clear soap.


7. Once my clear M&P is nice and melted, spray your peppermint pieces well with rubbing alcohol; this prevents bleeding. Place peppermint pieces in loaf and slowing pour clear M&P over pieces to fully fill mold. Spray with rubbing alcohol to eliminate bubbles.




**HINT: To prevent your peppermint pieces from bleeding, try to let your clear M&P cool slightly, but not to the point of clouding or solidifying.**

8. Once your loaf has hardened at room temperature for about an hour, you can cut into your loaf!


Stocking Stuffer Certified Demo Calendar

December 16th 12pm-1pm Melt and Pour Christmas Loaf-There are a lot of melt and pour projects out there; sometimes it can be a bit overwhelming. Join us as an instructor goes over all the steps of a beautiful Holiday soap loaf.

December 20th 12pm-1pm Candy Cane Lip Balm-Nothing beats homemade lip balm, especially in the dry winter months! We will show you how to layer colors to create an adorable candy cane effect.

Here at Otion we love to share our project tips and tricks with our customers. We also like to share in some savings! Join us for an in store demo and receive 20% off of any demo used supplies.

Spooky Spiders

Here is a fun and easy melt and pour project you can do for Halloween! I will start off by saying that we will be making these soaps upside down! So be sure to read all the directions and look at the pictures before you start! It seems like a lot of instructions, but believe me, it’s very easy!


12 Bar Round Silicone Mold from Bramble Berry.

Plastic Spiders

Water Soluble Paper

16oz Clear Melt and Pour

Liquid colors of your choice, we used orange, green, blue and purple

Spray bottle with rubbing alcohol

20 drops of fragrance oil, we used Tart Apple with Butter-Cream Snicker-Doodle to make it smell like Caramel Apple!


1. Print spider webs on water-soluble paper, cut to fit the mold you are using. Set aside.
2.Melt down 5-6oz of clear melt and pour in 4 different mugs. Also, melt down 10oz of clear melt and pour in a Pyrex (or microwave safe bowl)
3. Add orange, green, blue and purple colorant in each mug until you reach your desired color.
4. Add 20 drops of fragrance oil to each colored cup. Set aside.
5. Put a very small amount of liquid blue on the back of a fork and stir in the clear m&p in the Pyrex bowl. This will offset the yellow of the clear m&p. Do not add fragrance oil to the clear m&p, this helps to keep it super clear!
6. Pour a small amount of clear m&p into the molds you are using. Just enough to cover the bottom.

collage 1
7. Spray with rubbing alcohol & wait until it solidifies, but does not cool.
8. Place the plastic spiders upside down in the middle of the mold.

collage 2
9. Pour more clear m&p on top until the spider is covered.
10. Spray with rubbing alcohol.
11. Place the water-soluble paper on top. Spider web facing down! Spray once again with alcohol.

collage 3
12. Then, take one of your colored mugs, and pour it over the paper. Be sure to pour it over a spoon so it doesn’t break through the clear m&p.
13. Spray with rubbing alcohol then set aside and wait until it solidifies completely!

collage 4



Melt & Pour Shaving Embeds

A few weeks ago I saw a very beautiful cold process soap online and immediately started wondering how I could create a similar effect using melt and pour. Here’s what I came up with!

I used:

About 3 pounds of White Melt & Pour Soap Base to which I added:

About 3 ounces of Liquid Glycerin. This makes the soap more malleable and helps prevent the layers from splitting apart when the loaf is cut into.

About 2 pounds of Clear Melt & Pour Soap Base to create my 6 colored blocks.

These liquid colorants: Non-Bleeding Cherry, Liquid Orange, Yellow Jelly, Liquid Green Oxide, Non-Bleeding Teal, Liquid Violet. The colors are up to you! You can try one or two colors, or as many as I did!

To start, I used a multi-bar rectangular silicone mold to create the colored soap out of which I would be making the shavings. Each bar was about 4 oz which made more than I ended up needing. I used clear melt & pour base with liquid colorants. My plan was to incorporate all six colors, but I ended up running out of room and using  just five. Remember, the colors you use and the order in which you layer them is totally up to you! Get creative!

Colors Shavings

For this project I used a 10″ silicone loaf mold which holds 3 pounds or 48 ounces of soap. With 48 ounces of soap and the 6 colors I wanted to use, I gathered that each layer would need about 8 ounces of white soap. However I didn’t end up weighing the shavings and subtracting that weight from the total. This is why I “ran out of room” and couldn’t fit the purple layer. The amount of shavings and therefore amount of color is entirely up to you! If you just want to play and see how it turns out, go for it!

The next part is creating the shavings which I thought was really fun! I used the largest size on a standard cheese grater. The shavings wanted to cling together so I simply spritzed them with rubbing alcohol in a bowl. This allowed them to separate and made them easier to handle.

Shavings Embed Collage 1

Melt your white soap and add the liquid glycerin. To keep the shavings from melting instantly you must let the soap base cool down to about 130 degrees. I used the same mini temp gun we use in cold process soap making to check the temperature. (If your soap IS too hot and ends up melting some shavings, I say go with it! See what the end result is!)

I sprinkled a layer of pink soap shavings into the bottom of the mold (1st photo below). I poured very slowly in a thin stream back and forth from one end of the mold down to the other until I covered the shavings to my liking (middle photo). I put the mold in the refrigerator until the layer was set, then started again by sprinkling the orange layer next (3rd photo).

Shavings Collage 2

Repeat with as many layers as you have!

Shavings Collage 3

When I was finished, I left the loaf in the fridge until it was cool throughout and it came out of the mold easily.

Cut into your new soap and see what you’ve made!

Shavings Collage 4

Celebrate Mom With A Melt & Pour Kit!

Mothers Day Melt & Pour Soap Kit


Looking for a gift idea for Mother’s Day? Treat her with a Melt & Pour Starter Kit and save 10% off your entire purchase! ( Just mention “Melt & Pour with Mom” at check out to receive the discount. Available at Otion store only, does not include purchases)


A Melt & Pour Starter Kit is $25.00 (before discount) and will include the following:

1 lb of clear base

1 lb of white base

And your choice of:

2 color blocks

1 milky way mold

1 2oz fragrance oil

Plus we’ll throw in:

1 dropper


What she really wants for Mother’s Day is quality time with her kids, and this is a great way to spend time together while having fun and creating something!

Gorgeous Geode Soap Tutorial

Title Card

We learned this neat technique from one of our fabulous customers, Marlona of The Little Things Store! These geodes will be so realistic, you’ll fool all your friends.  People won’t believe they’re not real geodes!


1lb Clear MP Base
Iridescent Glitter
Lime Essential Oil
Amethyst Purple Mica
Activated Charcoal
Wire soap dish or cookie rack
Extra large microwaveable bowl


Step 1: You’ll need 4oz of clear soap cut into small “shards” and another 4oz cut into large “shards.” You want odd-shaped triangles. Melt down 2oz of clear soap and cool until it’s comfortable to touch for the next step.


Step 2: Take all those small shards, and sprinkle two pinches of iridescent glitter on them and start smooshing them into a rough ball shape. Drizzle some of the cool soap over your shmooshed soap shards to help keep them together if they’re falling apart.

Step 3

Step 3: Now, start shmooshing those larger shards onto your smaller ball. You may have to melt some more soap to drizzle on top to keep everything together, so take your time and don’t stop shmooshing! When you’ve gotten all the shards packed on there, give it a good all-over drizzle with clear soap and let it cool on your wire dish or cookie cooling rack.

So you thought that was messy? This will take messy to a whole new level, so don’t do this in your cutest white blouse.

step4 mixing mica
Step 4: Melt down 8 oz of clear soap in a large pyrex or glass bowl. It needs to be big enough to dip your geode and get your hands in there. Add 1/2 tablespoon of amethyst purple mica. We’re over-coloring the soap so that we can get away with fewer layers for a saturated color.

Step5a Lime

Step 5: Now add 20 drops of lime essential oil and start dipping! After you coat the entire surface, set the geode on a rack to cool before doing another dip. We did 3 dips to get a good, purple color as shown below.

Step 6 charcoal

Step 6: To the remaining melted amethyst soap, add a full tablespoon of activated charcoal. We’ll dip the geode into this just once to get a shimmery black coat that’s a little bit sheer.

Final ball

Let the geode harden and cool before cutting into it. This won’t really take long, so go make a cup of tea and come back.

Step 7: It’s the moment of truth! Before you cut into your geode, you want to make sure of two things:

1. Your knife is fairly sharp
2. You’ve warmed your knife under hot, hot tap water.

This will ensure that the knife slices through the soap like, well, a hot knife through soap and you get a clean, drag-free slice. Otherwise, some of the packed shards in the middle may be knocked loose.

step 7

And you’re done! Enjoy and display your lovely geode soap. Experiment with different colors and glitters! And, as always, share your results with our soapmaking community on our Facebook Page.

Final Geode

Under Your Spell

Banner Image

We’re head over heels for these lovely clays, and they’re a perfect for those romantic, sultry Valentine’s colors.  We used the Paisley Tray Mold and a Syringe Injector to do the detail work with the purple, yellow, dark red Brazilian clays and heavy metal gold for some sparkly touches.

Yellow Brazilian Clay
Purple Brazilian Clay
Dark Red Brazilian Clay
Heavy Metal Gold Mica
Lovespell fragrance
1lb Shea MP Base
1lb Aloe Vera MP Base
Paisley Tray Mold
Injector Tool

Step 1: Cut up and divide your aloe base into 4 mugs. We’ll work with the colors one at a time, so melt one mug and add 1/4 tsp of your first color clay and 3ml of Lovespell fragrance. Mix well! Use the injector tool to fill in the areas you like, remembering that you’ve got 3 other colors to work with, so don’t fill in everything! You can always go back and change your mind later, so don’t worry too much.

Tip: To see your details better, put your mold on top of a white piece of paper!

Seeing Clearly

Repeat with the rest of your colors until all the detail cavities are filled. Wait for them to cool, and spray liberally with alcohol.

You should have quite a bit of colored soap left over; don’t worry, we’ll use it up!

Step 2: Melt 4 oz of shea soap base carefully. We don’t want it too hot, or it’ll melt all that detail work! It should not be steaming, but rather should be cool enough to have formed a thin skin (just like pudding!) on the top of the container.  Stir in the skin to melt it, and spray you detail work with alcohol. Pour the shea soap over your details. Allow to harden fully, and spray with rubbing alcohol before the next step.

Step 3: Melt back down all your other colors and remnants, and the rest of your shea soap base (12 oz).  Add an additional 1/2oz of fragrance to the melted shea soap.  Alternate pouring white with your colors before each layer has hardened fully for a swirled effect, or allow each layer to harden before pouring the next to get crisp layers. (I found I didn’t have enough soap left over to do complete layers).

If you only have a tiny amount of a color left over, like I did with my purple and gold, drizzle over a white background randomly for a lovely marbled effect. Whatever you do, you’ll have color all through your soap so it never gets boring once the design has washed off!

Finished Product

Tips and Tricks:
1. Have a cup of very hot water around to clean out your syringe. Clean it often with the hot water to prevent soap from clogging it up!
2. Patience, patience, patience! Don’t worry about coloring outside the lines, because you can always clean it up later with a tooth-pick or scraper tool. But don’t rush things! If your soap is too hot when you try to use it with the syringe, it will squirt out in big, hard to control puddles.
3. Have fun! This is your work of art, and it’s a great way to spend a rainy afternoon and practice your soap art skills.