Creamy White Bastile Soap

Originally featured in our August newsletter, this  soothing soap is naturally pure white!  Infused with calendula and lavender with additional chamomile extract, this creamy soap is super moisturizing and has a clean, sweet scent.

 

The finished product!  Creamy white, and extra soothing.

The Recipe
18 oz infused Olive Oil
2 oz Shea Butter
6 oz Aloe Vera Liquid
2.4 oz Lye (10% Superfat)
1 oz Chamomile Extract
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold

Olive oil infusion:
24oz Olive Oil
1oz Calendula Petals
1oz Lavender Grade 1
If you have never made soap from scratch before, please check out Anne-Marie’s video series to learn how to safely work with lye.

Straining our lavender & calendula infusion
Step 1: Make your infusion!  Measure out 24 oz of Olive Oil, and add 1oz of Calendula and 1 oz of Lavender buds.  Heat on the stove on low heat for 4 hours, then strain.  You’ll wind up with less than you started, approximately 18oz of infused olive oil.

Step 2: Measure out 2.4oz of Lye and 6oz of Aloe Vera Liquid to make your lye solution.  Set aside to cool.
Stirring in shea butter to gently melt it into our warm olive oil
Step 3:  Measure out your infused Olive Oil and heat gently in the microwave, about 30 seconds.  Stir in the shea butter; directly heating the shea butter in the microwave causes it to crystalize!
Adding our lye/aloe solution to the oils.  Notice how yellow the solution is from the aloe vera liquid!
Step 4: Add your lye/aloe solution to your melted oils. Notice that the lye/aloe solution is a little yellow.
Stickblending soap to a light trace
Bring your soap to a thin trace,
Adding chamomile extract to thinly traced soap
and add your Chamomile Extract.  Stir well!

Our soap in the mold.  Now is the time to add your texture!
Step 5: Pour into your mold and bang the mold on your work surface to get rid of any air bubbles.  We’ve made soft peaks with our spatula, but you can get more texture by waiting until your soap is at a thicker trace.
The finished product!  Creamy white, and extra soothing.
Step 6: Because this mold is silicone and insulates on its own, leave this soap uninsulated.  Wait at least 2 days before unmolding; it takes longer for soap to harden in this particular mold and this recipe is soft.  Cut, cure for 4 – 6 weeks, and enjoy!

60 thoughts on “Creamy White Bastile Soap

    • Hi Marianela! The grade of the oil is less important than the overall color. You want an oil that is as light as possible, as the color of the olive oil will be a part of the color of your final recipe. Often, Virgin or Extra Virgin is the lightest colored, but be sure to double check when you purchase at the store to make sure you’re getting the lightest bottle on the shelf.

      -Elizabeth

    • Yes, you could use a slow cooker to infuse the oil. Just be sure to keep an eye on it so the oil doesn’t burn or get too hot! You don’t want to boil the oil.

      -Elizabeth

  1. I made this recipe and was so excited to use it once it cured….unfortunately it’s one of the worst CP soaps I’ve ever made. ZERO lather, even when rubbing like crazy, and only somewhat creamy. I’m very disappointed in this recipe. I used the last of my herbs in it too :(

    • Hi Julie!

      I’m sorry to hear that you didn’t like the soap :( It is softer, and most superfatted than our usual recipes, and was designed more with moisturizing in mind than cleansing.

      Thanks for sharing your results with us!
      -Elizabeth

    • Hi Julie

      I know this is a very late reply, but as the olive oil content seems to be around 90%, please don’t give up on your creation!

      If you leave the bars to cure for up to 12 months, I think you’ll be very pleasantly surprised :)

    • Hi Barbara!

      It’s less about what ingredient is making it white, and more about what’s not making it yellow! Since this recipe doesn’t have any palm oil, there’s not a lot of yellow color in this recipe. We also used a very light colored olive oil, which stayed very white.

      -Elizabeth

  2. The calendula that was used in the infusion, can this be mixed into another soap you may have that you normally add calendual to? Or would it not work because it was oil soaked? Being on a very tight budget, I hate to waste anything. Thanks in advnace.

    • Hello there Hannah! don’t worry about your soap gelling in the middle. Gelling is completely normal, if you would like to avoid gelling, make sure that your soap does not get to warm. A great way to achieve this is to stick it in the fridge. If you would like your soap to gel all the way, you can wrap it in blankets!

      Pleasant days,
      Alesia

  3. Hi
    I was wondering whether I can replace the Calendula, Lavender and Chamomile with EO since it is very difficult to get those petals and extract in my country and it would be very expensive.

    Thanks
    Nik

      • Hi again
        i have done this soap with lavender eo 1.5% and chamomile eo 1.5%. I’ve also have added lavender powder 1%, calendula powder 1% and chamomile powder 1%.. it is now in curing stage. However it is still quite soft after 8 weeks. Is there any reason why? Should i wait a little longer before using it?

        • Softness can happen for a variety of reasons. A lot of the time humitdity can play a big role in the curing. Your soap is completely usable and wont hurt anything, however it might be really soft in your shower and not last as long as a harder bar. Hope this helps!

  4. I am loving your silcone loaf mold. Is it difficult to extract? Sorry for a lot of questions, but just one more… I’ve been using a casserole dish and want to purchase a loaf mold- which do you recommend buying, wood or silicone? Does it depend on the soap recipe? Thank you soooooo much!!!

    • Hello Ana,

      Every single extract has its own unique benefits, for this recipe we used Chamomile for its gentle soothing abilities. If chamomile is something you can not find near you, you could always substitute it for Calendula extract or Aloe extract. However if you are feeling a bit more brave you could always try something different, such as Avocado or Buckthorn extract both are incredibly moisturizing on the skin.

      thank you for the great question!
      Alesia

    • Hello Becky!

      This is a good question, especially since the term “Bastile” is not very common. So lets ask Anne Marie what it means!
      What is bastille?
      “Bastile is a term affectionately coined by soapers for soap that is made with a high percentage of olive oil. Castile is 100% olive oil soap and bastile is soap made with 70% (or more) olive oil but contains other oils or butters.”

      knowing what Bastile soap is makes a big difference in knowing how long it needs to cure. Most soap recipes should cure for about 4 weeks, however if you have a soft soap such as Castile or Bastile, you may want to let your soap cure a bit longer in order for it to harden up a bit. Your soap is safe to use after a few days however by letting it cure longer you are allowing excess water to evaporate, thus making a harder bar of soap that will last longer in your shower.
      I hope this information helps!

      Alesia @ Otion

  5. I used a baby shoe box and got 6 bars 1″ thick. Worked very well..EXCEPT that I have a layer of olive oil on top that did not DO anything LOL..will let it sit another day and see what happens.

  6. I use aloe Vera extract but it also has water and glycerine in it – is that still ok to use with lye ?
    Also what adjustment would I make to create a slightly harder soap, maybe an 8% superfat?
    Thank you!

  7. Not exactly happy… the recipe required Aloe Vera Water and I used “Aloe Vera 100% distilled liquid from leaves” (btw: very expensive) and followed your recipe to the letter, checked it on MMS soap calc – all Ok, then resized the batch on MMS soap calc to 45 oz of the oils – still OK.
    However, although the soap looks lovely, this is the first time ever I ended up with a soap that has a ph of 12 after unmolding – normally the ph of all other soaps I made is about 8 – at the most 9 – (I check every batch).
    Would you have any explanations? I would appreciate your thoughts about this.
    PS: and yes, I alway double check the lye – It should have given me a superfattting of 6-7%.

    • Petra, this seems like a very odd thing to happen. The presence of extra lye is most likely the culprit. I’m wondering if there was a malfunction with the scale you used, or perhaps a different source of lye? Sorry I don’t have more of an answer, but I hope this helps a little bit :)

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